第1个回答 2007-02-21
民族服饰色彩的象征功能，随着历史的演化而演化。其中一个重要的也是必然的趋势，就是服饰色彩从动物本能或图腾、宗教以及记史释俗的历史重负下解脱出来，成为人们美化生活、展示民族心理特征的衬饰。这是人类发展史上的一种文明和进步，因为人类越向前发展，审美的精神内涵会日渐增强，对服饰色彩的要求就越高。
服装的色彩美是一个很重要的问题。一些研究色彩的学者曾提出配色的七种法则：统一法、衬托法、点缀法、呼应法、分块法、缓冲法、衔接法。一般说，庄重、朴实的格调，往往是由深度的颜色构成的，而轻快、明朗的格调往往由浅色系列的颜色构成。人们经过巧妙的选择、搭配，通过色与色之间的过渡产生一种类似于音乐中优美旋律的感觉，这是用色的极高境界。此外，色彩的心理作用还包括：收缩感和膨胀感，一般说，黑色、深色具有收缩感，而白色、浅色具有膨胀感；当人们看到红、橙、黄色时，常会联想到具有同样颜色的太阳、火光等而产生暖热感，而青、蓝、紫等色彩往往使人联想到海水、夜空而生发冷感，等等。各民族经过长期的生活实践，自觉或不自觉地利用了色彩的这些功能，使服装色彩具备了各自的个性。
许多少数民族妇女的服饰大都采用色彩斑斓，大红大绿的衣料制成，具有浓郁的民族特点。如云南峨山、新平、石屏县的彝族“聂苏”支系的花腰妇女衣裤，喜用对比强烈的两种以上色布拼接而成，全身以红色为主，红黑相间，杂以绿、蓝、白等色，鲜艳悦目，美不胜收。背部饰有五色条布合成并绣上各种花纹图案的彩虹带，表示太阳光芒向四周喷射。
各民族服饰色彩体现出不同的风格特点，给人以不同的审美感受。独龙族的服装给人以简朴粗犷的印象；苗、瑶、布依等民族服饰，做工精细，色彩艳丽，极富装饰意味，多以黄、红、蓝、绿、白等对比强烈的色彩，运用织、绣、挑、染等工艺，色彩艳丽而协调，图纹繁多又不显紊乱，显示出妇女们特有的艺术才华及其审美心理，成为各民族表达审美情感和审美理想的有力工具。
可以预见，随着少数民族社会的发展，民族服饰色彩作为审美符号将出现以下三个特点：
1、功利的、实用的服饰色彩将向着审美的方向不断跃进。由于少数民族的社会发展存在着巨大的差异，许多民族服饰中关于“美”的观念主要还是从其自身的文化观念中引伸出来的，即“善”、“真”就是美，色彩本身的审美规律并没有真正发挥作用，可望今后有大的突破。
2、民族服饰色彩在客观上表现出来的“美”多是本能的、不自觉的。随着色彩实践的深入，人们对色彩的本质和规律将有进一步的认识和把握，他们将从本能中解脱出来，在色彩的利用上完成一次飞跃，达到真正意义上的自觉。
3、民族服饰色彩还将从表现群体审美意识逐渐走向表现个性、表现自由，这是社会平等、文明、繁荣的象征。
总之，随着社会的发展，渊源于动物本能的社会成员的审美需要被召唤而凸现出来，色彩审美规律开始发挥作用。这种基于审美需要而自觉调整服饰色彩的现象，在民族服饰中是很常见的。他们为了在自己的服装上增加一些色彩，增添几分美，遵循一定的色彩表现规律和法则，创造出服饰色彩这种“有意味的形式”。
民族服饰艺术的点睛之作
云南各民族妇女不仅是纺纱织布的能工巧匠，也是挑花刺绣的能手。她们从美化自身开始，在最能表现装饰艺术的帽子、衣领、袖口、胸兜、围腰、鞋及挎包等绣上美丽的图案，赋予美好的含义。
走进云南民族博物馆民族民间手工艺品专题馆，这一类不但具有实用性、而且具有欣赏价值与美感的民间艺术品，就会扑面而来。
被称为民族服饰艺术“门面”的绣片，可分为单纯使用的绣件，如手帕、方巾、装饰绣件等，和服饰上的配饰绣片如袖口、衣领、胸兜、领披等等。不同民族的绣片，又各具特色。
壮族背心绣片。既有绣鸟、蝴蝶、花卉，以白布贴绣出花卉图案，将丝绣的花鸟图案分隔开来，构图对称，极为精致；也有贴花锁绣背心。锁绣工艺是云南壮、彝、白等族绣花的一种技艺，先在绣件上剪出要绣的图案，再用不同色彩的丝线“锁”出图案边缘，立体感极强。
路南彝族挑花大方巾。以对角线为中心，用黑线绣出五具图案区，每个图案区上下左右对称。最边一区绣有人物、狗；第二区绣有人和蝴蝶或蜜蜂；第三区为树木图案；第四区为蝴蝶图案；第五区为中心图案，以黑线绣成一朵大的花卉造型，内分别绣有二至四区的代表图案和民居。每层图案都由不同的色线绣成，整体构图紧凑、严密，繁而不乱，是绣件中的精品。
帽饰、帽子是服饰的重要组成部分。云南各少数民族都有自己传统特点的帽子，其中尤以童帽最为精彩。童帽不但种类繁多，造型栩栩如生，而且装饰技艺多样，饰纹精美，寓意深远。
红河彝族牌坊帽。这是彝族常见童帽，帽沿以铜或铝制成佛像装饰，形同牌坊，有祈福避邪之意，寄托着母亲对孩子的挚爱。
昆明汉族虎头帽。上绣有“王”字，并有牌坊型莲蓬，风格上与彝族的极为相似。
傣族童帽。用盘绣、镂空拼绣等技法，以五色丝线绣制而成，风格上显得华贵富丽。
鞋饰。白族、彝族、壮族、布依族、蒙古族、普米族和傣族等都有穿绣花鞋的习惯。过去年轻姑娘结婚出嫁时，必须身着新娘装足穿绣花鞋，婚后一年内重大节日及拜认亲戚等场合也需穿绣花鞋。在大理白族民间，至今许多老年妇女仍喜欢穿自己缝绣的绣花鞋，鞋上多绣有“寿”字或吉祥图案，她们认为穿这样的绣花鞋能长寿健康。童鞋多以动物为造型，与儿童天真可爱、喜欢小动物的童趣融为一体，煞是逗人喜爱。其中比较有代表性的“十二生肖鞋”，把中国特有的属相运用到童鞋上来，更具民间情趣。
香包。也有称荷包的，是云南民间的传统刺绣工艺品，也是青年男女表达爱情的信物和装饰品。在云南民间习俗里，端午节戴香包，可以祈吉避邪。香包的种类很多，有动物造型的猴子串香包、彩马香包，有蝴蝶香包、绣球、八卦香包等等。香包小巧玲珑、绣工精细，便于携带，如今已成为重要的旅游纪念品。
不论是精美的绣片、形制多样的绣花鞋，还是稚趣可爱的童帽童鞋，小巧玲珑的香包等，都集挑、扎、绣、贴、缝、扣、锁、染等多种传统技法于一体，题材与构图丰富多彩，质地多种多样，做工考究，是民族服饰艺术宝库中的画龙点睛之作。
青铜器与云南民族服饰
云南民族众多，服饰文化源远流长，博大精深。尽管古代史料对云南民族服饰的记载不很详细，但晋宁石寨山、江川李家山等地出土的大批青铜器，尤其是器物上数以百计的人物图像，为我们提供了一个考据古今云南民族服饰的资料宝库。云南现有20多个民族的服饰中，有10多个能在青铜器图像中找到其源流。
从这些青铜图像上，我们可看到不同民族、不同身份的服饰形象。如“战争贮贝器”、“鎏金献俘扣饰”等，刻画了古滇人的戎装武扮；“籍田出行”及“上仓”贮贝器刻纹，则描绘了滇人的农装、祭服；在数量更多的铜挂饰、铜剑、铜杖头、铜扣饰上，人物的服饰更是不胜枚举，或繁缛、或简朴，种类繁多，式样各异。主要有以下几种：
板状冠与斗笠。晋宁石寨山出土的四人缚牛铜扣饰中的3人，以及八人乐舞铜扣饰中的4名舞蹈者，头上都戴着一种板状冠，形状与冕形冠相似，即发髻上有突起的乳钉及简单的花纹，板中段有束带与发髻系为一体，再系在人的颈项上。冕是中原王朝高级官员所戴之冠，它不仅前后有垂珠，也有纹饰。石寨山出土的人物图像所戴的“冕形冠”，仅有纹饰而无垂珠，并且戴的人也不是什么高官，不能称之为冕形冠。现代云南的少数民族中，还有人戴这种冠，人们称它为“板状冠”或“顶板”，瑶族地区戴这种冠的支系被称为“顶板瑶”，藏族地区也有人戴。
在晋宁石寨山出土的贮贝器上，播种场面中有人身背斗笠；牧牛器盖上的牧童也背着斗笠。直到今天斗笠仍与人们的生活日夜相伴，并且变得形制多样，颇有风味。例如：云南德宏地区傣族的小篾帽，用很细很薄的竹篾编制，小巧玲珑。新平花腰傣的斗笠，形制更为特异，帽檐往上略卷，有了一种向上翘动欲飞的感觉，戴时高高地斜在前额，更显别致。
披帔。披帔在滇国的使用很广，无论是男是女或身份高下，几乎人人都在使用。从青铜器图像看，滇国的披帔上多数有花纹，除几何形花纹外，还有孔雀、蛇、鹿等动物纹。它既有保暖作用，也是一种华丽的装饰品。
对襟衫。这是滇国主体民族中不分男女和身份高低的通用服装；从青铜器图像上看，凡发式为椎髻及银锭髻的，都穿这种服装。其特征是对襟、无领、衣长及膝，袖短并且窄，有的仅及肘。穿着时不系不扣，用带束住，对襟的两侧有边饰。这种古老的款式，不大讲究体型线条美，而是以各种绣花装饰来展示其特有的美。作为女装，现在仍然在藏、苗、瑶、彝、哈尼、水、布朗、阿昌、佤、德昂、基诺、景颇等民族中流行。
裤子及裹腿。从众多的青铜器图像上可以看出，只有少数的古滇国居民在特殊场合下穿短裤。如石寨山和李家山出土的执伞男女俑，从他们蹲或跪坐的姿势中，可以看到从上衣内暴露出来的短裤。多数情况下，无论男女都只穿一件长至股膝间的上衣，直到近现代，云南许多少数民族妇女仍然存在只穿裙子不穿裤的习惯。
由于滇国居民多数人没有穿裤的习惯，除长衣和少量的短裤(或短裙)遮盖部分身体外，胫部始终暴露在外面，因此一些劳作者为了避免荆棘刺伤小腿，便用裹腿来进行保护。现代民族中此俗仍比比皆是。
发式。今天傣族妇女以束发为髻，穿筒裙、穿短袖衫，以金、银装饰牙齿等为主要服饰特征，这也是古老传统。束发为髻在石寨山出土的青铜器图像上就清晰可见，如四人乐舞俑就是高髻上束带，他们发式的捆束方法和今天元江、新平等县花腰傣妇女高髻的捆束方法基本相同。
刺绣。青铜器人物图像十分细腻写实，乐舞俑的装束尤其花哨，有的周身密布图形，条纹、几何纹、水波纹、草水纹、云状纹、羽状纹、鸟状纹等各种纹饰，都出现在人物图像上。纹样的差异，似乎还表示着身份或职业的区别。时至今日，云南的少数民族服饰仍继承了古滇国“染采文绣”的精妙，款式更加多样，色彩更加斑斓。
Chats the Yunnan national minority clothing color
The national clothing color symbolic function, evolves along with the historical evolution. Is important also is the inevitable tendency, is the clothing color driven instinct or the totem, the religion as well as records Shi Shisu under the historical heavy burden to extricate, becomes the people to beautify the life, the demonstration nationality psychology characteristic lining decoration. This is in the human history one kind of civilization and the progress, because the humanity jumps over move forward, the esthetic mental connotation can strengthen day after day, is higher to the clothing color request.
Clothing color America is a very important question. Some research colors scholars' once proposed matches colors seven principles: The unification method, serves as contrast the law, the spot 缀法, echoes the law, the piecemeal law, the cushion law, the title connection. Generally said that, grave, simple style, often is constitutes by the depth color, but lively, bright style often by tinted series color constitution. The people pass through the ingenious choice, match, produces one kind through between the color and the color transition to be similar in the music the exquisite melody feeling, this is with the color side high boundary. In addition, the color psychological process also includes: The contraction feeling and the inflation feeling, generally said that, the black, the deep color have the contraction feeling, but the white, the tint have the inflation feeling; When the people saw when red, orange, yellow, the regular meeting associates has the similar color the sun, the flame and so on has 暖热 the feeling, but blue, blue, purple and so on the color often causes the person to associate the sea water, the nighttime sky produces the cold feeling, and so on. Various nationalities passed through the long-term life practice, determination or not on own initiative have used color these functions, caused the clothing color to have respective individuality.
Many national minorities women's clothing mostly uses the color variegated, the loud colors dress material makes, has the rich national characteristics. If the Yunnan Oshan, Sinping, Shiping County's Yi nationality "the Nie Soviet" collateral series' colored waist woman clothing, happy becomes with contrast intense two kind of above 色布 splicing, whole body by red primarily, reddish black alternates with, by green, blue, white isochromatic, bright is mixed good-looking, too beautiful to behold. The back decorated with 五色 striped cloth synthesis and embroiders each kind of pattern design the rainbow belt, indicated the solar ray to all around sprays.
Various national clothing color manifests the different style characteristic, for person by different esthetic feeling. Drung nationality's clothing gives the person by the simple rough impression; Seedling, precious, national clothing and so on Puyi, works fine, color gorgeous, extremely rich decoration meaning, many by yellow, red, blue, green, waits in vain to contrast the intense color, the utilization weaves, embroiders, selects, dyes and so on the craft, the color gorgeous and coordinated, attempts the grain to be many does not reveal the disorder, demonstrated the women unique art talent and its the esthetic psychology, become various nationalities to express the esthetic emotion and the esthetic ideal powerful tool.
May foresee, along with the national minority society's development, the national clothing color took the esthetic mark will appear following three characteristics:
1st, the utility, the practical clothing color will be approaching the esthetic direction 不断跃进. Because national minority's society develops has the huge difference, in many national clothings about "beautiful" the idea mainly or extends from its own cultural idea, namely "is friendly", "really" is America, the color itself esthetic rule certainly untrue display function, will hope to have the big breakthrough from now on.
2nd, the national clothing color in on objective displays "beautifully" are many is the instinct, unconscious. Along with color practice thorough, the people will have the further understanding and the assurance to the color essence and the rule, they will extricate from the instinct, will complete a time of leap in the color use, will achieve in the true significance determination.
3rd, the national clothing color also gradually will move towards the performance individuality, the performance freedom from the performance community esthetic consciousness, this will be the social equality, the civilized, the prosperity symbol.
In brief, along with society's development, the origin is esthetic to the animal instinct members of different social classes needs to summon but 凸现 comes out, the color esthetic rule starts to play the role. This kind but on own initiative adjusts the clothing color based on the esthetic need the phenomenon, in the national clothing is very common. They in order to increase some colors on own clothing, increases several minute America, follows the certain color performance rule and the principle, creates clothing color this kind "to have meaning the form".
National clothing art adds the finishing touch work
The cloud Namhkok nationality woman not only is the skilled craftsman which reels thread to weave cotton cloth, also is the embroidery embroidery expert. They from beautify own start, in most can display the decoration art the hat, the collar, the sleeve cuff, the chest pocket, the girdle, the shoes and the satchel and so on embroiders the beautiful design, entrusts with the happy meaning.
Enters the Yunnan nationality museum nationality folk handicrafts topic hall, this kind not only has the usability, moreover has the appreciation value and the esthetic sense folk artware, can caress the face.
Is called the national clothing art "the facade" is embroidered the piece, may divide into the pure use to embroider, like the handkerchief, the hand towel, the decoration embroider and so on, matches the decoration with the clothing on to embroider the piece like sleeve cuff, the collar, the chest pocket, the collar throws over and so on. The different nationality embroiders the piece, also each characteristic.
The Zhuang nationality vest embroiders the piece. Also has embroiders the bird, the butterfly, the flowers and plants, embroiders the flowers and plants design by the white ornamental pathches, embroiders the silk the flower-and-bird design to separate, composition symmetrical, is extremely fine; Also has the applique lock to embroider the vest. The lock embroiders the craft is Yunnan is strong, Yi, waits in vain the race to embroider the flowered one technique, first in embroiders the design which on cuts must embroider, then uses the different color the silk thread "the lock" the design edge, the stereoscopic effect greatly strengthened.
South road Yi nationality embroidery big hand towel. Take the opposite angle line as the center, embroiders five designs areas with the heavy line, about each design area bilateral symmetry. Most side an area embroiders has the character, the dog; The second area embroiders some person and the butterfly or the honeybee; The third area is the trees design; The fourth area is the butterfly design; The fifth area is the central design, to the heavy line embroiders a big flowers and plants modelling, in separately embroiders has two to four areas representative designs and the common people residence. Each design all embroiders by the different streak, the overall composition compact, is strict, numerous but is not chaotic, is embroiders a center the high-quality goods.
The hat decoration, the hat are the clothing important constituent. The cloud Namhkok national minority all has the oneself tradition characteristic the hat, You Yitong the hat is most splendid. Virgin hat not only type many, modelling lifelike, moreover decoration technique diverse, plays the part of the grain finely, the implication is profound.
Red River Yi nationality memorial arch hat. This is the Yi nationality common child hat, the hat along makes the image of Buddha decoration by the copper or the aluminum, the shape with the memorial arch, has prays avoids evil influences meaning, is reposing the mother to child's love.
Kunming Han Nationality noble appearance hat. On embroiders has "the king" the character, and has the memorial arch seed case of lotus flower, in the style and the Yi nationality is extremely similar.
Dai national minority Tong Mao. Embroiders with the plate, hollows out spells embroiders and so on the technique, embroiders the system by 五色 the silk thread to become, in the style appears magnificently and expensively is splendid.
Shoes decoration. Pai nationality, the Yi nationality, Zhuang nationality, Buyi national minority, the Mongolian nationality, 普米族 and the Dai national minority and so on all has puts on embroiders the embroidered shoes the custom. In the past the young girl married when got married, must wear the bride to install the foot to put on embroiders the embroidered shoes, married in the latter year the significant holiday and recognizes situation and so on relative also must put on embroiders the embroidered shoes. In Dali's Pai nationality folk, until now many old ages women still liked putting on oneself sew embroider embroider the embroidered shoes, on the shoes embroider have "are long-lived" the character or the propitious design, they thought put on such embroiders the embroidered shoes to be able the longevity health. Tong Xieduo take the animal as the modelling, naive is lovable with the child, likes micro-organism's virgin interest merging into one organic whole, really teases to like. Comparison has "the Chinese zodiac shoes" representatively, utilizes the Chinese unique animal representation of a birth year the virgin shoes to come up, has the folk appeal.
香包. Also has the name purse, is the Yunnan folk traditional embroidery handicraft, also is the youth men and women expresses the love the faith token and the ornament. In the Yunnan folk custom, Dragon Boat Festival wears 香包, may pray lucky avoids evil influences. 香包 the type are very many, has the animal modelling the monkey string 香包, the color horse 香包, has the butterfly 香包, embroiders the ball, the Eight Diagrams 香包 and so on. 香包 small and exquisite, embroiders the labor to be fine, is advantageous for carries, now has become the important traveling souvenir.
No matter is fine embroiders the piece, the construction diversely embroiders the embroidered shoes, or young interest lovable Tong Maotong shoes, small and exquisite 香包 and so on, all the collection selects, grips, embroiders, pastes, the seam, the buckle, locks, dyes and so on the many kinds of traditional technique to a body, the theme and the composition is richly colorful, quality of material many and varied, works elegantly, is in the national clothing art treasure house adds the finishing touch work.
Bronzeware and Yunnan nationality clothing
Yunnan nationality multitudinous, the clothing culture is well-established, broad and profound. Although the ancient times historical data was not very detailed to the Yunnan nationality clothing record, but Jinning Shi Zhaishan, Jiangchuan Li Jiashan such as places unearthed large quantities of bronzewares, in particular on utensil hundreds of characters picture, has provided a textual criticism ancient and modern Yunnan nationality clothing material treasure house for us. In the Yunnan existing more than 20 nationalities' clothing, some more than 10 can find its source and course in the bronzeware picture.
From these bronze pictures, we as worthy of looking at as different national, different sta